An immense pie of thin, flaky pastry filled with spiced pigeon, lemony eggs, tangy onion sauce and toasted sweetened almonds, fried and then dusted with cinnamon and sugar - this is bisteeya. Elaborate and festive, it is the most captivating of all Moroccan first courses, a pièce de résistance for weddings and birthdays. Moroccans also eat this pie in a dramatic way, by plunging the thumb and two fingers of the right hand into the hot pastry and scooping out a portion to eat - a practice Americans might consider too messy.

Though to my mind classic bisteeya is one of the world's great dishes, it is too rich for many occasions. Moroccan cooks have developed a lighter seafood version that is so good it has become a favorite even in traditional Moroccan homes, which proves that cuisines are always in transition.

In the wonderful bisteeya variation that follows, fish fillets and shrimp are seasoned with charmoula, the Moroccan marinade that is typically used for fish, vegetables and chicken. Charmoula combines the forceful green flavor of fresh cilantro and parsley, the bite of hot pepper, the pleasant sweetness of tomatoes, the tang of fresh lemon, the pungency of preserved lemon and the richness of olive oil. In its fabulous complexity, it virtually defines Moroccan fish cookery.

I heard rumors about a seafood bisteeya in the late Seventies. To find it, I tracked down Mohammed Boussaoud, a tall, lanky chef at La Mamounia Hotel in Marrakech, who shared his recipe with me. He used spiced fine noodles in place of the buttery almonds, and sandwiched the shrimp and fish between layers of those noodles and fresh spinach leaves, which helped the seafood remain moist and hold its texture despite long cooking. Cut into wedges, this bisteeya makes a fine lunch dish or first course - one that should be eaten with a fork.

For this dish, it's best to use large shrimp and thick chunks of skinless cod, sea bass, halibut, monkfish or swordfish. Preserved lemons are available at Middle Eastern groceries. Here, large pieces of the preserved lemon peel are baked right into the bisteeya; these pieces are not really meant to be eaten.

1. Make the Charmoula: In a medium saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the tomatoes and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until reduced to 1/2 cup, about 10 minutes. Transfer the tomato sauce to a blender. Add the cilantro, parsley, lemon juice, garlic, paprika, cumin, salt and cayenne and the remaining 1/2 cup of olive oil and blend until smooth.

2. Make the Bisteeya: Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Add the vermicelli and cook until barely al dente, about 2 minutes. Drain well, shaking off any excess water. Transfer the vermicelli to a bowl and stir in 3/4 cup of the charmoula. Refrigerate until chilled and almost all of the sauce has been absorbed by the vermicelli, about 1 hour. In another bowl, toss the sliced fish with the remaining charmoula and refrigerate.

3. Heat a large skillet. Add the spinach by the handful and cook over high heat, turning with tongs, until thoroughly wilted. Transfer the spinach to a colander and let cool. Squeeze the spinach dry and then finely shred it.

4. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Brush a 10- or 12-inch pizza or paella pan with olive oil. Unroll the phyllo sheets and cover them with plastic wrap and a damp kitchen towel to keep them from drying out. Lightly brush 10 sheets of the phyllo with olive oil and lay them across the pizza pan in every direction to completely cover the bottom of the pan with some overhang. Spread half of the vermicelli evenly over the phyllo and cover with the marinated fish in an even layer, separating any slices of fish that stick together. Arrange the preserved lemon rind quarters on the fish and top with the shrimp and spinach. Spread the remaining vermicelli over the spinach.

5. Brush the remaining sheets of phyllo with olive oil and layer them over the bisteeya. Fold all of the overhanging edges under the bisteeya, as if tucking in sheets. Using a sharp knife, make a 2-inch slit in the top. Brush the top with olive oil. Sprinkle lightly with soda water and bake for about half an hour, or until golden and crisp. Carefully transfer the bisteeya to a large round platter, cut into wedges and serve hot or warm.

Make Ahead: The recipe can be prepared through Step 2 and refrigerated for up to 3 hours.

This recipe was first published in Paula Wolfert's Mediterranean Grains & Greens